Throughout my second research, I can continuously taking inspiration from military uniforms, so I decided to look for primary research in my local museum; Shrewsbury Museum and Art Gallery. During my visit, I was able to collect a range photographs of paintings and many angles of a historical First World War British Army Uniform. When taking my photographs, I made sure that I was capturing the key shapes, colours, details and silhouettes in the paintings and outfit to help me when designing my own menswear tailored collection.
After spending many hours researching the different styles of historical tailoring/clothing and military uniforms, I decided to start experimenting with metres of fabric to translate my design ideas from my head onto a men’s mannequin. Process Drapery is a design development technique that consists of you either twisting, folding, wrapping, layering, pinning or braiding fabric around a mannequin to create new shapes that you could late work with or involve into your collection. I took my inspiration from traditional french military uniforms and combined it with contemporary shapes that are common in todays world of men’s tailoring. I decided to do the same design process for trousers, jackets, coats and cloaks so that I have a wider range of interesting shapes to draw onto into my sketchbook.
This afternoon we were given the task to construct a sculpture that was made from wooden sticks and layers of cotton and embroidery threads that interlocked with each other. I decided to start constructing a triangular base for my sculpture and construct a 3D edgy sculpture. Once the base and structure of my sculpture was completed, I continued the trend of spray painting my work with silver paint before wrapping and interlocking cotton and embroidery thread. I decided to use the colours black, red, orange and yellow as I have never worked with these colours before.
To take my experimentation further I decided to play around with the placement of my edgy sculpture of a female mannequin. This also enabled me to picture where my sculpture could be used in a garment. After experimenting with the placement many times in different areas I then decided to experiment with draping netting around the mannequin while pinning my sculpture ontop. This made my final placement outcomes more expressive and bold because of the drapery involved behind and around the 3D sculpture. I was then ready to printed my photographs out and draw onto them to design more unique and creative shapes.
During my athleisure collection I experimented a lot with the shape, colour, volume and proportion until I was happy with 4 different outfits. This stage in the project is called design development because it shows a story from where to started, to experimenting and being really creative with your design to your final designs you want to display as your final collection.
I was inspired by the darker side of athleisure I used a range of shades of black and grey. When I was designing my collection, I started off by lightening and photocopying my male croquis so that I was able to quick sketch ontop of the figure. This allowed me to get all my ideas and thoughts down quickly and not worry about neatness.
I wanted to focus on the large volumes and proportions so I decided to start off by drawing oversized jackets and padded sleeves. I also played around with the scale by sticking with one design that I loved and drew it three times but changing the length and volume to give me three very different designs.
I also designed a range jogging bottoms and shirts and played around with the proportions until I was happy with my 60 designs. I then decided to match up some of my designs so that I had 4 final outcomes that I was confident with. I then scanned my 4 final outfits into Photoshop and played around with the my choice of fabrics. This really did bring my outfits to life and gave me a clearer view of my final garments.
My Final Design Boards for My Portfolio:
Collection Name: Grayscale
For my first collection of the HNC year, we were given the task to design a range of 10 different garments that were inspired by Athleisure for Adidas. I started doing my research by looking on Pinterest for inspiration and related designers that are inspired by athleisure. This was when I came across Alexander Wang, James Long, public school and Juuni.J. I really liked how to focused on the oversized shapes, exaggerated proportions, bold colours and striking textures.
I collected a range of different images that focused on the oversized shapes, bold colours, exaggerated proportions, striking textures and the causal trend of athleisure. Once I had all my images printed off I then started cutting them out and pinning them onto a design board for me to see clearly when it came to analysing and designing my collection.